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Before committing yourself
to the purchase of one these fine
pieces, knowledge of the product
is essential. As you read through
this material, we hope to help you
better understand estate and antique
jewelry.
Estate jewelry, simply
defined, is previously owned jewelry.
It may be as old as the late Victorian
period or as new as yesterday. Antique
jewelry is also previously owned
jewelry, but to be considered a true
antique, the piece must be authenticated
as at least 100 years old, according
to the US Customs Bureau. Period
jewelry is that jewelry which has
recognizable characteristics dating
from a definite design period. It
may, in fact, be centuries old, but
for the present we will confine our
discussion to the jewelry we are
most likely to see, those dating
form the Victorian period to the
present.
VICTORIAN
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The
primary reason for investing
in antique jewelry, as opposed
to other works of art, is
the simple fact that it can
still be put to its original
purpose -- that being to
complement beauty and fashion.
Some
collectors enjoy antique
jewelry for its historic
or academic value, but
most also appreciate jewels
from a bygone era that
still serves to flatter
modern styles and at the
same time add that inimitable
touch of antique charm.
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Though casual buyers of estate and
antique jewelry still tend to associate
most old pieces of jewelry with the
Victorian era, there are definite
characteristics that serve to identify
those that are, in fact, verifiably
Victorian, or dating from the 64
year reign of Queen Victoria of England
(1837-1901).
Victoria Alexandrina assumed the
British throne at the very crest
of the wave known as Romantic Revivalism,
a movement marked by the most complex
and fastest changing jewelry fashions
the world has ever seen. Still a
teenager when she was crowned, Victoria
was the very paradigm of marital
bliss upon her marriage to Prince
Albert. Their love for each other
was celebrated throughout the British
empire and to such a degree that
whatever Victoria adopted as fancy,
her loyal legions turned into fashion.
Just as Victoria's tastes influenced
the aristocracy of the day, so did
that aristocracy dictate the fashions
of the masses - with disastrous results
for the jewelry trade in the latter
years of her reign. Following the
death of Prince Albert in 1861, the
wearing of jewelry during the day
fell rapidly out of fashion. The
effect of Victoria's growing moral
severity and pompous conservatism
nearly bankrupted some of the finest
jewelers of the time. A group of
them eventually appealed to Princess
Alexandra, wife of soon-to-be King
Edward, to help reverse the trend
by consenting to be seen in public
wearing lavish pieces of the day.
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However,
those jewelers were also
likely responding to technological
advances of the time, including
the invention of the steam
engine in he 1850's.
By
the late 1800's, steam
was being widely used in
the mass production of
jewelry. The resulting
drop in quality, while
stimulating sales and afford
ability, worked against
those jewelers for whom
craftsmanship was paramount.
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Though not all-inclusive, the following
characteristics should help the collector
of antique jewelry identify authentic
Victorian pieces.
The early gold Victorian pieces
were all 18 to 22 karat. Following
the Stamp Act of 1854, gold content
was standardized at 9, 12, or 15
karats, and required to be hallmarked
and stamped as such. Non-gold metals
used in costume jewelry were either
pinchbeck (83 parts copper and 17
parts zinc), mercury gilt, or electric
gilt. Other popular metals of the
time included silver, silver backed
by gold and rolled gold plate. Whenever
diamonds were to be set, they were
invariably set in white metal so
as to enhance their intrinsic beauty.
Predominant design themes employed
in Victorian jewelry borrowed from
natural origins, i.e., flowers, trees,
and birds. Early Victorian jewelry
incorporated lights, delicate designs
with elaborate engraving. These eventually
evolved into the heavier, more conservative
designs the Victorian period is more
noted for. Two popular design types
that originated in the Victorian
period were Cannatille and Repousse.
Cannatille jewelry utilized twisted
strands of gold wire wound into elaborate
designs. Repousse, on the other hand,
was identifiable for its solid forms
with raised and fluted edges that
gave the piece its characteristic
massive quality.
Jet, coral, human hair, and seed
pearls were all popular organic materials
used in Victorian pieces. Mourning
jewelry, sometimes called memorial
jewelry had been popular for many
decades prior to Victoria's ascension
to the throne. However, upon the
death of Prince Albert, the entire
British empire was thrown into 40
years of enforced gloom. The public
would have none of it and mourning
jewelry fell quickly out of favor.
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The
late Victorian era was greatly
influenced by the archeological
expeditions in Egypt, Italy
and Greece, which brought
to light for the first time
in the West, the vast array
of ancient jewelry.
Designers
were quick to capitalize
on the public's imagination
by launching a wave of
reproductions. The works
of such designers such
as Castellani and Giulano
were especially noteworthy,
and they continue to
be much sought after today.
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With the death of Queen Victoria,
the stage was set for an explosion
of new jewelry designs and manufacturing
techniques. Pent-up emotions from
decades of extreme conservatism were
to act as a catalyst for a sudden
and profound break from tradition.
The seeds of rebellion were sprouting,
eventually to grown and bear fruit
as the Art Nouveau period to the
early 20th Century.
ART
NOUVEAU
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Exuberant,
exotic, emotive, expressive,
are terms used to describe
Art Nouveau jewelry. What
is it about Art Nouveau
jewelry that touches the hearts
of sophisticates, critical
collectors, or just the
average consumer? It is
the beauty that is felt
when one views the great works
of someone like Renoir, Servat,
or Gauguin.
Many
pieces of Art Nouveau
jewelry are truly works
of art, not merely items
of adornment. Some of
the ingredients that
make Art Nouveau jewelry
so emotionally beautiful
are the use of subtle
color and shading, suggestion
of form, delicate turning
and mystical imagery.
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Appreciation
of Art Nouveau takes time. The
more one views them, the more
apparent their intrinsic beauty
becomes. They are imaginative
pieces, daring and different
from other styles and forms.
The
Art Nouveau movement, although
short lived (approximately 1890 through
1910) made a lasting impact on the
jewelry industry which is still felt
today. It was a reaction to the mass
produced jewelry that had become
so popular late in the Victorian
period. The style of Art Nouveau
jewelry was a radical change from
the somberness and adherence to strict
rules which characterized both French
and English jewellery in the 1860's
and 1870's. There were few restrictions
in the design of Nouveau jewelry.
The most common motifs incorporated
life forms, orchids, lilies, irises,
ferns, snakes, dragonflies, animal
and human forms. Life-like to dream-like
simplicity of metal alone to the
complexity of enamel and precious
gems. The rebellion against the strict
customs of the Victorian and Edwardian
periods released an incredible out-pouring
of creative energy that not only
produced pieces of subtle beauty
but also touched the sublime and
the mystical. No longer would a piece
of jewelry be a mere adornment, now
it became a part of one's soul.
Along
with the creative energy
came a mastery of technique
in casting and carving
of gold as well as the
extensive use of enameling
as never seen before.Probably
the single most important
technique used by Art
Nouveau designers was
enameling. The type of
enameling used most often
was known as Plique a'jour.
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Plique
a'jour is defined as enameling
that is transparent with no backing.
The effect most often achieved
by Plique a'jour enameling is
likened to that of stained glass.
The technique of applying this
type of enameling was extremely
difficult and very popular because
it exemplified the jeweler's
skill and artistry. This effect
gave Art Nouveau jewelry a distinctive
appearance much like a three
dimensional painting. Other types
of enameling that were also popular
were basse-taille and guilloche
enameling, techniques that required
engraving the metal or raising
a design, then fusing a thin
layer of transparent enamel over
the work. These and the techniques
of Cloisonné' Chamieve'
were made popular by Faberge
in Russia around the turn of
the century. Many times a craftsman
would combine the use of different
methods of enameling on the same
piece.
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Unfortunately,
when something comes along
that generates excitement
and interest, so do people
who want to take advantage
of the public's lack of
knowledge.
So
how does one differentiate
between an authentic piece
of Nouveau jewelry or a
reproduction?
Quality
is the first thing to consider
in determining the authenticity
of a piece of Nouveau
jewelry. Quality should
be evident in every part
of the piece, from the
smallest detail to the
overall design.
Enameling
is also extremely important
in determining the originality
of a piece.
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The
enameling on a reproduction will
generally be uniform and sharp
with little or no shading. The
edges of the piece will appear
sharp, showing little or no wear,
and in the case of a pin, the
pin and clasp will be in "mint" condition.
Files and polishing marks which
are often an indication of handiwork
will not be evident. The hallmark,
indicative of many old pieces,
will appear new and the various
settings will appear identical
since they are usually mass produced.
Reproductions will also exhibit
pits in the gold due to poor
or frequently repeated castings,
detail work will often be neglected,
and much of the design of the
piece will not be artistic, a
quality that is intrinsically
Art Nouveau.
Determining the value and overall
quality of a piece of Art Nouveau
jewelry is not an easy thing to do.
To become skillful at recognizing
an authentic piece of period jewelry
requires a serious effort. Jewelers
and collectors alike must take the
time to visit museums and auction
houses, places where this type of
jewelry can be seen. There is no
substitute for the experience gained
in the hands-on examination of these
pieces.
EDWARDIAN
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Lace translated into platinum
and diamonds. This is the phrase
used to describe Edwardian jewelry.
The Edwardian Period was a short
period, dating from 1901 to 1910,
during the reign of King Edward
VIII, son of Queen Victoria.
Edward was 56 years old when
he succeeded to the throne.
The
Edwardian Period is sometimes
lost or forgotten, sandwiched
between two great periods,
that being Art Nouveau
and Art Deco. The opening
years of the century were
still under the spell of
Art Nouveau. While many Art
Nouveau artists concentrated
on design, many of the
larger firms such as Cartier
and Tiffany were making
headway in improving the
appearance, setting and
cutting of diamond jewelry.
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In
direct contrast to Art Nouveau,
many of the designs initiated
between 1901-1910 were rather
understated. The restraints of
Victoria's era were followed
by the extravagance and sophistication
of the reign of Edward VIII.
Edwardian jewelry was the jewelry
of high society and nowhere was
the Edwardian style more apparent
than in the jewelry of the period.
As discussed previously, many of
the periods had overlapping characteristics
and Edwardian jewelry was no exception.
It had its roots in the closing years
of the Victorian period. In contrast
to diamond jewelry made in the late
19th century, diamonds were made
to look as fine and delicate as possible
in order to blend with the lace,
silk, and feathers, or marks of total
femininity of the Edwardian lady.
Diamonds were essential in the development
of an Edwardian piece of jewelry,
with many of these pieces being among
the finest jewelry ever made.
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Princess
Alexandra, Edward's wife,
and the Princess of Wales
had a great influence on
fashion of the period.
Probably the strongest
influence on Edwardian
jewelry was the dramatic
progress made in gem stone
cutting.
The
pear shape lent itself
well to the elegant Edwardian
themes, but the stone
cutting used in Edwardian
jewelry was just a hint
of what was to come in
the subsequent period,
Art Deco.
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Other
characteristics of Edwardian
jewelry include the extensive
use of platinum. Invisible settings
of platinum extended and flattered
the brilliance and whiteness
of the stones. Millgrained setting
was made popular during the period.
Millgraining required that a
thin bead of metal securing the
stone would be ridged and textured
with tiny grains or beads. This
effect would create an extremely
fine, almost imperceivable rim
around the diamond. Knowing the
strength of platinum, designers
skillfully produced pieces that
were extremely thin and lightweight,
masterpieces of engineering.
Platinum also lent itself to
the open work designs and scalloped
patterned edges that gave the
illusion of fine hand-made lace,
unmistakably Edwardian. Also
very characteristic of the period
was the use of knife edge wires.
These were thin blades of metal
with a sharp edge facing upwards,
so that only a fine "knife edge" of
metal was visible.
The
bow, which is characteristically
Victorian, took on a new meaning
in the Edwardian period. Made of
platinum and produced in a honeycomb
pattern of fine mesh, the bow was
used to match the delicate fabrics
and hand embroidery worn by the
rich. Brooches, pendants, and rings
were also made in that very delicate
style. One design that emerges
during this period was the "Negligee" pendant.
It had two drops of unequal length
hanging from another single stone
or a thin chain. The "sautior," a
long necklace consisting of pearls
or a find chain ending in a tassel,
was also made popular during the
period.
Although much of the jewelry produced
during the period was grand and expensive,
many other less expensive pieces
were also made popular. Bar brooches,
half hoop bangles set with pearls,
diamonds, or colored stones, gypsy
rings worn by both men and women,
cross over, half hoop, snake rings,
and gold chain bracelets set with
turquoise and pearls. Star settings
also became popular during this period.
Although much of this jewelry was
produced late in the Victorian period,
it is recognized as being Edwardian.
The prosperity and open display
of wealth were brought to an abrupt
end by the realities associated with
World War I. The attitude that would
emerge following World War I was
one that would surprise the whole
world. The Edwardian period, as we
know it, would never be recaptured.
ART
DECO
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It
was an age of prohibition,
cocktail parties, flappers,
and the Charleston - "The Roaring
Twenties." It was a decadent
period, a strong reaction to
the strict Victorian ideals
that still prevailed.
The
Art Deco period, although
almost entirely an American
phenomenon, derived its
name from the Exposition
of Decorative Arts and Modern
Manufactures in Paris in
1925.
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The
difference between Art Deco and
other periods, is that the design
aspects that were applied to
Art Deco jewelry were incorporated
into everything from toasters
to ocean liners. The central
theme of Art Deco is its geometry
and symmetry. Its boldness of
both design and color had such
universal application. This is
one of the fascinating aspects
of the Art Deco movement.
Designs that were characteristic
of the earlier periods were generally
an attempt to escape from the clutch
of the industrial monster known as
mass production. The Art Deco movement
was an attempt to combine the harshness
of mass production with the sensitivity
of art and design.
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Art
Deco jewelry was influenced,
to some extent, by the two
previous periods, Art Nouveau
and Edwardian. Borrowing
from Art Nouveau its highly
stylized and graceful designs,
Art Deco took the free
flowing curves and naturalistic
motifs and replaced them with
a harshly geometric and symmetrical
theme. Borrowing from the Edwardian
period its use of platinum
and diamonds, designers
of the period discovered
new techniques to work
with platinum that enabled
the implementation of designs
with precise and intricate
shapes and outlines.
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Diamonds
were cut in shapes never before
seen such as emerald cuts, pear
shapes, and marquises. These
blended well with the symmetrical
nature of the jewelry.
Color also played an important role
in the development of Art Deco jewelry.
The pastel colors, that were uniquely
Art Nouveau, were replaced with a
vivid display of bold colors. The
stark whiteness of platinum combined
with diamond or crystal is a fundamental
theme of Deco jewelry. The application
of color was usually dramatic. Black
and white were the preferred colors,
but ruby, sapphire, emerald, turquoise,
and coral found extensive use in
jewelry of the period. Interesting
to note: The designers of the period
never hesitated to use inexpensive
stones such as crystal and coral
with platinum and diamond.
Gone were the cameos,
tiaras, and lavalieres of the Victorian
period. In were the long pendants,
bangle bracelets, cocktail rings,
and elaborate accessory items such
as cigarette cases and holders along
with heavily jeweled compacts. Perhaps
the item of jewelry most recognized
of this period was the double-clip
brooch. The two identical clips could
be attached together and worn as
a single brooch, but more frequently
they were worn separately on the
lapels or belt of a dress.
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The
Art Deco movement virtually
died with the onset of the Depression
and the outbreak of World War
II.
A
brief attempt was made
to revive the period following
World War II but failed,
yet it is now undergoing
a revival as one of the
most unique periods in
the development of design
in the 20th century.
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The
creative spirit that helped foster
the innovative designs of the
Art Deco period would never be
recaptured, but fortunately,
many examples of jewelry of this
period still remain.
RETRO
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With the war in Europe, jewelry
production in the United States
came to the forefront. Many of
the jewelry firms in Europe were
shut down and several of the
European designers immigrated
to the United States.
While
Europe was in a deep depression,
the United States was enjoying
an economic recovery. The
jewelry market in the United
States had never before
been so important.
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Jewelry
took on an American look, incorporating
the flowers, bows, and sunburst
designs of previous periods,
but with a Hollywood flair. Hollywood
stars became the trendsetters
as royalty had been previously.
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Jewelry
during from the mid 1930's
until the late 1940's became
bigger and bolder than
ever before. Large gemstones,
many well over 100 carats,
were often used.
Aquamarine,
citrine, topaz, and synthetics
became ever more popular.
Rose gold replaced the
platinum used during the
Deco period, since much
of it was needed to fund
the war.
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Following
World War II, the jewelry designs
became more traditional and understated.
Platinum came back into use and
rose gold diminished. The big,
bold styles of the Retro period
went out of style and were replaced
by the more tailored styles of
the 1950's and 60's.
STERLING
SILVER:
General
Properties - Sterling silver is
an alloy consisting of 92.5%
pure silver and 7.5% of other
metals, usually copper. Most
silver jewelry is made using
Sterling silver because pure
silver is too soft and needs
a stronger metal like copper
to preserve its ductility (capable
of sustaining large plastic deformations
without fracture).
All
silver in our items are guaranteed
to be Sterling silver.
Stampings
- Most Sterling silver jewelry
will be stamped by either STER,
or .925 to designate that the
piece is Sterling silver. Some
pieces may not be stamped,
however, this does not mean the
piece is not Sterling silver.
Sterling
Silver Care - The natural tendency
for Sterling silver that is alloyed
with copper is to tarnish after
exposure to oxygen. This is normal
and is expected from Sterling
silver. There are various silver
cleaners and polishing cloths
on the market that can remove
tarnish from Sterling silver.
Rhodium
Plating - There are many occasions
where Sterling silver may be
plated by rhodium, which is a
highly desirable metal, even
more valuable than platinum.
This process gives the piece
a very high polished shine that
actually gives the jewelry the
appearance of white gold or platinum
and also prevents the piece from
tarnishing.
It
is highly suggested that you
do NOT use silver cleaners or
polishing cloths to clean silver
jewelry that has been plated
with rhodium. This is because
the cleaner will remove the rhodium
and leave behind unpolished silver
which may be undesirable in appearance.
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